From Faro to Portimão: A Casual Way to Do the Algarve

This June I went to Portugal. If you're thinking about skipping Lisbon and Porto and heading straight to Faro and Portimão, go for it. These two smaller towns in the Algarve gave me exactly what I was after: sunshine, seafood, wine, and that kind of slow summer where the days feel like years and the years feel like days.

The Algarve has a way of pulling you in without trying too hard. It's relaxed, a bit wild around the edges: vineyards, olive trees, dusty hills, and full of details that make it feel different from anywhere else. I wandered around looking for hidden corners, but even the obvious ones felt good. Golden beaches, narrow streets, dinners that stretch on for hours. No big checklist, no pressure. Just the rhythm of being there, and letting the days unfold on their own.

Getting there was easier than I expected. I found flights to Faro with just a quick search and booked on impulse, no overthinking, just a need for sun. There are plenty of options year-round, whether you're going low-cost or a bit more comfortable. If you’re planning ahead, set a price alert and wait for that sweet spot. Sometimes the best trips start with a cheap flight a random spark of inspiration.

Digital tip: Travel lighter with an eSIM. Airport Wi-Fi is hit or miss, and the last thing you want after landing is to mess around with SIM cards and settings. With an eSIM, you're online before your luggage hits the carousel, ready to find your Airbnb, book a ride, or send a beach selfie before your friends even realize you’ve left.

Faro: Coastal Calm, Historic Corners, and a Wall of Skulls

Faro, the capital of the Algarve, welcomed me with a mix of calm coastal energy and old-world charm. When I arrived in the city center from the airport, my first walk took me through Arco da Vila, an elegant stone archway built into the old city walls. It’s part of a former Moorish gate and one of the few remaining pieces of the original medieval entrance to the town. Step through it, and you're in the historic Old Town. Inside, it was all narrow cobblestone streets, quiet little squares, cafés and tavernas tucked into corners. The buildings looked aged in the best way, like they’ve seen all the good (and weird) stuff.

Eventually, I ended up in front of the massive stone tower of Faro Cathedral. Right in the heart of the Old Town, on Largo da Sé, the cathedral has this layered mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture that kind of sneaks up on you. I wandered through the side chapels, admired the hand-painted azulejos, and sat for a while in the small garden inside the grounds. Then I climbed up the bell tower. It didn’t take long, but the view from the top was worth every step. Rooftops stretched out to the marina, and beyond that, the Ria Formosa lagoon. Total stillness up there.

Faro Cathedral

Later that day, things took a turn for the slightly morbid, but in a fascinating way. I visited the Capela dos Ossos, the Chapel of Bones. The walls are covered with actual human bones - femurs, skulls, and more, arranged in patterns from floor to ceiling. It was built by Carmelite monks in the 19th century using the remains of over a thousand monks, moved from overcrowded cemeteries as a way to remind visitors of the fragility of life. It’s eerie, of course, but also oddly beautiful in its own way. Not your usual tourist spot, but it definitely made an impression.

Back above ground, I wandered through the city center again and ended up at the Marina de Faro. Boats gently rocking in the water, a cold drink in my hand at Café O Coreto, and suddenly the pace of the day just slowed to a crawl. After that, I walked through Jardim Manuel Bivar, a small palm-lined park that’s ideal for a coffee break or just sitting quietly. The light was soft, the benches mostly full, and it felt like the city was breathing slow and steady. I kept going a little further into Doutor Amadeu Ferreira de Almeida Park, a quieter, greener space with shaded paths, fountains, and locals going about their day. It felt completely unbothered by tourism, which I loved.

The next morning, after a quick coffee at Ponto Expresso Café in the Old Town, I was finally ready for the beach. No car? No problem. There’s a small ferry that runs regularly from the city center to Praia de Faro, a long, sandy barrier island just off the coast. The ride takes about 20 minutes and drops you right at the edge of the beach town. Praia de Faro stretches for kilometers, with a mix of quiet spots and more active areas with beach bars, restaurants, and even a few surf schools. The water was calm, the breeze steady, and the vibe very much: stay as long as you like. Swim, surf, or just lie back and let the sun do the rest.

For lunch, I grabbed a table at Zé Maria, a no-fuss seaside tavern. Grilled fish, olives, wine, and that perfect mix of sun and salt that makes simple food taste unforgettable. So good, I forgot my phone even existed for a solid hour.

Ponto Expresso caffe, Faro

Where I Ate and Drank in Faro

If you’re after proper Portuguese food in the Old Town, O Castelo quietly stands out. It sits just above the marina, built into the old city walls, and has this calm, open-air setting that immediately slows things down. I ordered grilled octopus with olive oil and garlic, simple and perfectly cooked, and paired it with a cold glass of white. Everything felt unhurried, well balanced, and exactly right for that kind of early evening meal that didn’t need a soundtrack. Just a fork, some bread to mop it up, and maybe stretchy pants.

For something a bit more tucked-in, Taberna Modesto and Old Tavern sit right on the old town square and both feel like they've been there forever. No frills, no trendy design, just heavy chairs, smoky air from the grill, and that deep chouriço aroma that tells you you're in the right place. I went in for a quick bite and stayed for hours. Local cheese, grilled sardines, a jug of house red that kept getting refilled. These places don’t push anything fancy, they just do the basics really well.

Down by the marina, O Coreto was my go-to for something casual. The menu won’t blow your mind, but the grilled fish was fresh, and the cocktails were surprisingly well made. Bonus points for the view! Boats rocking in the water, locals strolling by, and no one in any real rush. I had a mojito that tasted way better than it should’ve for the price.

Ponto Expresso Café became my morning ritual. It's a tiny spot with outdoor seating in the Old Town, and that’s really all it needs. A strong espresso, a flaky pastel de nata, and a quiet place to figure out the day ahead. Not Instagram-famous, just solid and peaceful. If you’re the kind of person who needs a few minutes of stillness with caffeine, this is the place.

And when I wanted something a little more polished, Chefe Branco delivered. Not fancy-fancy, just sharp. The terrace is calm and low-lit, the service is easygoing, and the grilled octopus (again, yes) was perfect. Add a glass of Douro red and a long, slow dinner, and suddenly the day feels like it knew exactly where it was going all along.

View from Faro Cathedral

Where to Stay in Faro

Hotel Faro & Beach Club

Right next to the marina and just a short walk from the Old Town, this hotel is all about convenience. Rooms are modern, the staff is friendly, and you’ve got everything you need onsite, including a rooftop with a restaurant, bar, and small pool. It’s a solid pick if you want to stay central, have easy beach access via their shuttle in summer, and enjoy a good breakfast before heading out.

Stay Hotel Faro Centro

Basic in the best possible way. It’s right in the center, walkable to just about everything: cafés, old town, shops, sardine-scented grill smoke. The rooms won’t blow your mind, but they’re comfortable, quiet, and perfect if you're more into spending your time out and about than staring at throw pillows. Bonus: great value, no weird surprises.

3HB Faro

This one’s for those who like their relaxation with a bit of polish. Think modern design, soft lighting, and a rooftop pool that makes you consider not leaving the hotel at all. It has a spa, great breakfast, and the kind of pillows you low-key want to smuggle home. A little more upscale, but still totally relaxed. Algarve chic, not Algarve snob.

Casa d’Alagoa

A hostel that somehow manages to feel like a laid-back shared summer house. It’s set in a charming old Portuguese building, with high ceilings, creaky floors, and that warm, social vibe that makes it easy to meet people without feeling like you're in a youth camp. Great for solo travelers or anyone who likes their accommodation with a side of community dinners and last-minute hiking plans. Expect friendly chaos in the best way.

Praia de Faro

Day Trip to Portimão: Trains, Cliffs, and Sardines

I hopped on a regional train from Faro to Portimão, and honestly, it couldn’t have been easier. Cheap tickets, no traffic, and just the right amount of scenery out the window: sunburned hills, cork trees, and small towns that seemed frozen in time. No car rental stress, no parking games.

First stop: Praia da Rocha. This is Portimão’s main beach, and it’s no small affair. It stretches long and wide, framed by massive ochre cliffs that look like they’ve been carved by centuries of wind and sea. It’s great for swimming, sunbathing, or simply walking the length of the shore until your legs give up.

At one end of the beach stands Forte de Santa Catarina, a 17th-century fort built to defend the coast from pirates and naval attacks. Today, it’s a peaceful lookout spot. I climbed the stone steps and paused at the top to take in the view across the beach and the mouth of the Arade River. You don’t need long there, but it’s worth the stop.

From there I followed the cliffside path toward Miradouro dos Três Castelos, one of the best viewpoints in the area. The walk itself is scenic and easy, passing beach cafés, hotels, and quiet pockets of greenery. The lookout offers layered rock formations and dramatic views over the coastline, especially striking in the late afternoon light.

When hunger kicked in, I headed to Churrasqueira da Praça, a laid-back, local eatery just outside the main tourist zone. It’s a simple grill house known for its juicy chicken and pork, served with fries, rice, and salad. Not fancy, but popular with locals for good reason. Portions are generous, prices are fair, and the flavors do the talking.

Later I made my way into town to visit the Portimão Museum, which turned out to be one of the best surprises of the day. It’s located in a former sardine canning factory and tells the story of the region’s fishing and maritime heritage with real care. You’ll find old machinery, photographs, personal accounts, and even the preserved factory layout. It’s compact but rich in detail, a great way to understand how this coastal town evolved.

Just around the corner begins the Old Town, with its narrow streets, patterned tiles, and quieter atmosphere. I stopped into Igreja da Nossa Senhora da Conceição, a small 18th-century church with a blue-and-white tiled interior and soft light filtering through the windows. It’s not a major attraction, but if you enjoy local architecture and peaceful spaces, it’s worth stepping inside.

R. Damião Luís Faria de Castro, Portimão

Where to Stay in Portimão

Hotel Da Rocha

Located right on Praia da Rocha beach, this hotel has a clean, modern style and the kind of sea view you don’t forget. Rooms are spacious and spotless, many with balconies facing the ocean. It’s the kind of place where you wake up to the sound of waves and actually feel like you’re on vacation.

Jupiter Algarve Hotel

Just steps from the beach promenade, this hotel has a relaxed, welcoming vibe and all the comfort you need. The rooftop pool is a highlight – perfect for a post-beach dip with a view. There’s also a spa if you need a reset after a long sunny day, and the breakfast is surprisingly generous and genuinely good.

Little Adventures Worth Taking

From Faro

Ria Formosa & 3 Islands Boat Tour

A half-day cruise through one of Portugal’s most beautiful natural parks. You’ll visit Armona, Culatra, and Farol islands, each with its own vibe. Great for swimming, walking, or grabbing seafood by the sea. Smooth ride, small groups, and just the right amount of time.
Perfect if you want nature, quiet, and clear water without planning a thing.

Benagil Cave & Coastal Cruise (No Kayak)

A 2.5-hour boat ride along the Algarve coast, ending with a close-up of the famous Benagil Cave, from the water. You won’t go inside (boats can’t), but the views of the cliffs, arches, and ocean caves are unreal.
Best for those who want great photos and zero paddling.

Traditional Entrance in Portimão

From Portimão

Benagil Cave by Kayak (Small Group)

One of the few tours that actually takes you inside the Benagil Cave. You’ll paddle along the coast in a small group, with a guide. Short distance, beginner-friendly, and early morning slots = fewer crowds.
Go for this if you want the real experience, inside the cave, under the light shaft.

Algarve Wine Tour with Transport

An easy half-day trip to two local wine estates. Includes tastings of reds, whites, and rosés, plus traditional snacks. No need to drive or plan anything. Just show up, sip, repeat.
A great inland break from the beach, especially for wine lovers.

The Takeaway

Between Faro and Portimão, I found exactly what I didn’t know I needed: simple meals that made me weirdly happy, old streets that felt lived in, and beaches wide enough to enjoy some peace and quiet without crowds. There was something about the pace here, calm but never boring. It reminded me how nice it is to do less. Sit longer. Eat slower. Walk without counting steps. The wine was good, the bread was warm, and no one seemed in a rush, which honestly felt like a luxury. I came back rested, slightly sunburnt, and 80 percent made of grilled fish. Wouldn’t change a thing.